A SOFT PATCH OF LAWN provides a needed place for families and pets to sit and play as well as an agreeable foil to colorful borders. If your old lawn is worn and weedy, or you are putting in a new lawn, autumn is a perfect time of year to sow grass seed. Cool days and nights, coupled with more frequent rains, will encourage the seeds to germinate and grow quickly. To give the new lawn time to become well established before winter, plan to sow seed six to eight weeks before the first heavy frost. Lawns grow best and are easiest to maintain in sunny, fairly level locations. If your site is steep or shady, consider planting a portion of it with grass and the rest with a groundcover to save on water and maintenance. When choosing the type of grass seed to plant, pick one that suits your climate and the intended use of your lawn. Many of the more recently developed cultivars are far more resistant to drought, insects, and disease than the older ones. There are also cultivars intended for heavy-use areas, and mixes for partially shaded sites. For a more natural look, consider a mix that contains wildflowers and clover seeds. For help selecting seed, consult with a nursery or your county extension agent.
1. Remove Old Sod
If you are replacing an existing lawn, strip off the old sod and put it on the compost heap. If you try to dig or rototill it into the soil, your seedbed will be rough and uneven, making the grass tough to mow. Remove the sod by hand with a sharp spade or mechanically with a rented sod cutter. You can also use a power-driven lawn edger to make parallel cuts about six inches apart across the sod and then a spade to undercut the sections. Whatever the state of your site, be sure to dig out any weed roots (such as dandelions), or they may come back to haunt you. Also remove any debris and rocks from the site.
2. Amend the Soil
Grass grows best at a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. A soil test will indicate if you need to add lime or sulfur to adjust the pH. (See the box below for more information.) Now is also the time to add organic matter to improve the soil’s texture and its ability to hold moisture and nutrients in the root zone. Spread a generous amount -at least a three-inch layer- of organic material, such as compost, rotted manure, or sawdust that has been aged or fortified with nitrogen. (Raw sawdust takes nitrogen from the soil as it decomposes, making this nutrient unavailable to plants.) You may be able to get compost from your town’s municipal composting center. Then broadcast a high-phosphorous fertilizer, such as 7-21-7, evenly over the area at the rate specified on the label.
3. Make the Seedbed
Blend the amendments into the soil to a depth of six inches with a spading fork or rototiller. Then use a garden rake to smooth and level the seedbed. Slope the grade slightly away from the house or buildings. Firm the soil by running a lawn roller half-filled with water over its surface. Use a rake to fill in any remaining hollow spots that may hold puddles, and reroll them.
4.Sow the Seed
If the soil is dry, water it to a depth of about six inches and let the top inch dry before seeding. Choose a windless day to sow the seed. By hand, or with a broadcast spreader or drop seeder, scatter half of the seed as you walk back and forth across the seedbed. Spread the rest of the seed at right angles to your first route. Lightly rake the surface of the soil just enough to cover the seeds. Go over the area with an empty roller to firm the seed and ensure good contact between seed and soil.
5. Mulch, Water, and Care
Covering the area with a thin layer of mulch will help keep the soil moist and discourage the birds from eating the seeds. Then, water the seedbed. Keep it moist until the seeds begin to grow—about two to three weeks, depending on the type of seed. Water lightly several times a day to keep the surface of the soil moist, taking care not to wash out the seed or young seedlings. As the grass becomes established, gradually decrease the frequency of irrigation, but increase the amount of water applied each time. To keep the tender young grass safe until it is strong enough to handle foot traffic (usually about six to ten weeks after sowing), set up a temporary fence around the area. You can begin mowing when the grass is about three inches high, or when the blades begin to curve downwards.
TESTING YOUR SOIL: Testing your soil before planting will tell you its pH, nutrient content, and heavy metal content, giving you important information about what the lawn will need to flourish. While there are do-it-yourself soil test kits, it is more accurate to send a sample to your cooperative extension service or state agricultural university, if they still perform this service. You can also check the phone book under "Laboratories" or ask local nurseries for the names of private labs that perform soil tests.-J.H.S.
